Revival Rules

REVIVAL RULES
SAVING YOUR SKIN FROM THE POST-SUMMER BLUES

Here our resident skincare expert, Dr. Jeannette Graf, a leading clinical and research dermatologist,
answers your end of summer skin questions.

Dear Dr. Graf,
Every summer my family and I rent a house on the beach and love to go surfing. We all wear sunblock
and are very careful not to burn, but my skin is dry and rough. What can I do to get back my soft skin?
—Jenny, Westchester, NY

Many people ask me this question. Even though you have done everything possible to take care of and protect your skin, at the end of the summer your skin looks and feels rough and dry. Even though you have applied moisturizer faithfully and reapplied your SPF during the day, by the end of the summer you have alligator skin. Well, that is not really surprising considering that during the summer, constant exposure to the chlorine, sun, wind, sand, sea and surf takes a toll on the skin. Often, no matter how diligent you are in caring for your skin, it doesn’t seem to make a difference in its dryness. This is what I call the post-summer skin blues. And, to boot, as the fall season starts to emerge, the weather becomes less humid and cooler temperatures prevail, which leaves skin even drier; in some cases, eczema may develop. To prevent further dryness your daily shower must be kept to no more than five minutes and the water temperature must be lukewarm. You should use the most gentle moisturizing body wash to minimize further drying of the skin since foaming cleansers can dry out the skin even more.

You may have used lightweight moisturizers during the summer, but as the fall season approaches, you'll need a richer body moisturizer with greater emollient capabilities. A good body moisturizer is one that contains humectants, such as lactic acid and/or urea, which attract moisture into the skin. My recommendation is to use this kind of body moisturizers and then seal in the moisture with a lipid-based moisturizer containing natural oils. This mimics the normal structure of skin which contains humectants and lipids. Use this combination two times a day: morning and before bedtime. Start by using an at home microdermabrasion kit or gentle salt or sugar scrub to remove the excess dead skin which has accumulated over the summer. For the first several weeks, this process should be performed twice weekly, followed by a weekly exfoliation. Don't neglect applying body moisturizer—continue twice daily application even if your skin looks and feels better. Keep up the good work—it will pay off with soft, smooth and glowing skin.

Dear Dr. Graf,
My face gets oily during the summer and now that the fall is here my summer regimen is not working and my skin feels dry and tight and I have more age spots and wrinkles than ever. What can I do?
—Denise, Vancouver, BC

It is very common for summer skin to respond to heat and humidity with increased oiliness. Oilier skin requires less moisture and emollience which makes summertime moisturizers often lighter in texture. After the summer, facial skin is often drier as the outside humidity is lower. This means that the skin care that worked during the summer is not enough for the cooler fall months.
Here are some simple steps to revamp you skin:

1	Change your cleanser to a soap-free gentle facial cleanser. This will be less drying to the delicate facial skin.
2	Renew your skin with a Retinol-based skin treatment every night. This is a very important step in helping to even out uneven skin tone and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
3	Gently exfoliate the excess dead skin cells by using a microdermabrasion lit or chemical peel kit both available on drug store shelves. Use one or the other, but not both, and only once or twice weekly. This will reveal renewed, fresh skin and permit active ingredients to better penetrate the skin.
4	Night time should also include a hydrating moisturizer to nourish the skin during its very important renewal process.
5	Daytime you must continue to use your daily SPF. In fact, this rule must apply every single day of the year. Additional topical antioxidants give increased protection against those environmental pollutants and help our SPF work better.

Following these simple rules will ease you into the season with healthy, glowing, radiant and even-toned skin.

Got more questions for Dr. Graf? Email them to info@thefamilygroove.com.

Dr. Jeannette Graf, MD, FAAD, is a leading skin science expert, board certified, clinical and research dermatologist. A top industry expert, published author and National Institute of Health award winner, Dr. Graf combines minimally invasive office procedures with effective skincare products and nutrition and lifestyle counseling to elicit both an inner and outer beauty from each of her clients. To get your glow, go to www.askdrgraf.com.